HEART OF GERMANY – Franconia and the Altmühl River of Northern Bavaria – independently organized and led by Drew Reynolds.
WÜRZBURG to REGENSBURG (9days-8nights)
This year we are offering an expanded heartland tour of Germany. It begins in the Franconian city of Würzburg on the Main River, traverses the Tauber River valley to the amazing medieval town of Rothenburg (pictured above). Famous for its yearly Meistertrunk festival and 15th century quaint cobblestone streets, the ancient wall around the city is immaculately preserved and can be hiked on for 2 miles while overlooking the ancient city.
After a day touring, we leave Rothenburg, climbing to the source of the Altmüh River and then following it for 5 days to its confluence with the Danube River. This historically important valley formed the Limes Germanicus, the northern border of the Roman Empire. Regensburg, our destination on the Danube R, was founded by Marcus Aurelius in 167AD. The smaller towns of Ansbach, Gunzenhausen, Weissenburg, Treuchtlingen, Eichstätt, Beilngries, Kelheim are immaculate villages tucked into wooded hills and pastoral bucolic scenery. Numerous castles – Colmburg, the Margrave Residence, Wülfsburg Fortress, Pappenheim, Willibaldsburg, Kipfenburg, Hirschberg, Riedenburg, Prunn are passed on the route but require a challenging climb to actually get to their fortified gates.
The tour utilizes the amazing German bike paths that permit 85% of travel to be on packed gravel paths away from traffic. Historically, the area spans human history. In Eichstätt the museum displays the Archeopteryx fossil discovered in Solnhofen which documented the relationship of dinosaurs to birds. Biriciana is a preserved Roman encampment outside Weissenburg. Charlemagne (793AD)-spent years constructing a canal near Treuchtlingen and Weissenburg. The European Watershed between the rivers of the Rhine basin and those of the Danube basin is very narrow. Had it succeeded, it would have connected the Danube watershed to the Rhine River, opening Constantinople to Amsterdam by waterway.
The Tour will start in early June(dates TBD) in Wùrzburg and finishes in Regensburg. This 9-day/8night Tour will be less than $2000/pp double occupancy with a standard hybrid touring bike included. Transportation to Würzburg is not included but the Nightwatchman’s Tour in Rothenburg, the Margrave Residence Tour, Pappenheim Castle, Willibaldsburg Castle, Riedenburg Castle and the 1 hour falconry show, and the Danube River Cruise to Weltenburg Abbey are all included. A kickoff banquet and all breakfasts are included as well. Transportation from Regensburg after our arrival in the afternoon, is on your own.
Day0- Arrival in Würzburg
Day 1- Wurzburg-Ochsenfurt-Rothenburg (38miles)
Day2- Rothenburg- Explore Rothenburg
Day 3-Rothenburg to Herrieden –(Margrave Residenz in Ansbach) – 35.3 miles
Day 4-Herrieden to Treuchtlingen- (Gunzenhausen/Weissenburg) -34 or 39 miles
Day 5 – Treuchtlingen to Eichstätt – (Pappenheim Castle) 28 miles
Day 6 – Eichstätt to Beilngries –( Kipfenburg Castle)- 29 miles
Day 7- Beilngries to Kelheim (Riedenburg Castle and Falconry show)-30miles
Day 8-Kelheim to Regensburg (R cruise to Weltenburg Abbey) 22 miles
INFO: Contact Drew Reynolds(256-509-0589) for more info or email at dreyn1952@yahoo.com.
Arrival Details: The closest international airport to the start of the tour in Würzburg is Frankfurt. I use the train apps DB (Deutsche Bahn) and Trainline.
Navigation: Velotours provides a route plan for the trip through an app called Komoot. It seems to be used more in Europe than Ride with GPS, which I typically use here in the US. With Komoot you can use it online for free but it requires cell data to navigate. You can purchase specific map areas, or for $29 as a one time charge, you get maps of the entire world. You can also upgrade to Premium but that charge is yearly $49. The advantage is saving the routes offline and not using as much cell data and draining your phone. I am currently working on creating Ride with GPS Daily route guides as a back up if the Komoot doesn’t work for everyone. Velotours (our touring company) also gives out a laminated book with detailed maps for every two people which is actually kind of fun to try and figure out. However, it really slows down the navigation.
Cell phone: I have always used Verizon in Europe which has not been as seamless for communication as I had hoped. I have switched to T-Mobile for this trip because it supposedly has better international coverage. They recently bought Sprint and are owned by Deutsche Telekom. I am hoping a text group will be able to reach everyone’s phone on the tour. I will set it up with everyone’s number and send out a Komoot route. I would also recommend that everyone have a battery pack for their cell phone.
Packing details: BRING YOUR HELMET b/c they don’t provide them. Unhygienic? Gore-Tex raingear or a poncho. Raingear can be hot. A small cycling cap is useful under the helmet for the bill that keeps the drips off your glasses. Sunglasses and clear lenses for cloudy and rainy. Last year was pretty warm but we are going 10 days earlier and it can be high 40’s in the morning, which if it is raining, could be cold. Hotels tend not to have top sheets on the bed. They have a “summer” (light) coverlet which I find hot for sleeping. I am considering bringing a double sheet. Some hotels will have AC, some not. There will be a pannier for everyone and a front handlebar bag for every 2 bikes. I recommend regular comfortable running/tennis shoes. There are no toe clips or SPD/Look pedal attachments. They frown on making modifications to the bikes, like bringing your own seat or pedals but people have done it and put the bikes back the way they were. Perhaps it’s a liability thing.
It is probably important to stress that with a self-guided cycling tour there is NO SAG WAGON. Everyone needs to ride to the next hotel. It is theoretically possible to take a bus, train, or Uber but we are staying in relatively small towns making schedules unpredictable.
Detailed Itinerary:
Day 1 – Meet at Rothenburg Hotel(Goldenes Fass) @4:00pm for bike fitting and the introduction of fellow travelers. Banquet at 6:00pm with the mordant Nightwatchman’s Tour at 8:00pm.
Day 2 – Rothenburg to Ansbach(65km)- Group departure at 9:00A. Today’s ride begins with a good climb out of Rothenburg into the Altmuhl River Valley. We visit the source of the River at Hornau. Next stop Colmburg Castle, a private hotel. From Colmburg there are two options: continue straight on to Ansbach for a shorter biking day(46 km) and more time to visit museums and the Margrave Palace and Gardens in Ansbach. The longer biking day plan is to continue on to Herrieden(53km) for lunch. Check out the Storchentor(1316), the old stone bridge (1711), the Basilica St. Vitus and St. Deocar, Frauenkirche and Church of our Lady (9th Century), and the Rathaus. After sightseeing and lunch head to Ansbach(11km) for the night.
Day 3 – Ansbach to Treuchtlingen/Wettelsheim(69km)- We return through Herrieden and on to Gunzenhausen. Lunch is scheduled for the old city of Weissenburg(53km). Sightseeing as desired and leave around 3:00pm for Treuchtlingen/Wettelsheim(15km)
Day 4– Wettelsheim to Eichstatt (48km) – Tour Pappenheim Castle in the morning after a 15km ride. We follow the river to Solnhofen or Dollnstein for lunch. After lunch we journey to Eichstätt and upon arriving head to old town and the Cathedral or hike up to Willibaldsburg Castle overlooking the town.
Day 5 – Eichstatt to Beilngries (50km) – Leaving Eichstätt the Altmuhl R cuts through the limestone cliffs of the Twelve Apostles in Sonhofen. We stop in Kipfenburg for lunch and explore the town or hike to the Castle. Leave for Beilngries, city of festivals, early afternoon. Hirschberg Castle overlooking the town is a good distance away and could be visited with an Uber or the festive atmosphere of Beilngries can be experienced.
Day 6– Beilngries to Kelheim (55km) – Todays’ first stop is Riedenburg (29km)and Rosenberg Castle for the falconry show at 11:00A. Lunch on the River. Optional: We pass Prunn Castle which can be visited with a steep climb or ride to the Danube R and Kelheim. Enjoy the Weisses Brauhaus-the oldest wheat beer brewery in Bavaria with a lovely Biergarten.
Day 7- Kelheim to Regensburg (45km)- We take a Morning boat tour through the Danube River Narrows to Weltenburg Abbey. Return at noon to the Hotel in Kelheim, pick up the bikes for a ride along the Danube River to Regensburg and its historical old city. Arrive late afternoon.
Day 8 – Tour Regensburg: Cathedral, Maritime museum, Palace, and departure when desired. Munich Airport is only short train ride away or go on to Munich to extend your vacation in Germany.
I hope people feel comfortable reviewing the sights in the various towns and letting me know if there are particular interests. I don’t think it mandatory that everyone ride together as a big group BUT if some would like to linger in a locale longer or take a side trip then I would hope you could let your Mother (tour guide) know and take a buddy. With the routes on the phone, there shouldn’t be a problem.
Drew
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